When I first saw her my heart skipped a beat. She had sleek clean lines, was a bright white against the Mediterranean Sea, and had five 225’ foot tall masts reaching toward the sky. The Wind Surf, one of the three boats that comprise WindStar Cruises, was the perfect ship. Proving that bigger is not always better, she looked like a hot sports car next to the other large square massive ships in the Roman port. Even before stepping foot on the boat, I could see why Windstar was honored by Conde Nast Traveler as the best small ship cruise line.

Being a very independent traveler, I never thought I would enjoy the confines or the schedule of a cruise ship. But all that changed when I discovered Windstar. Because the ship is only 535’ long (and this is the largest of their three ships) we were able to navigate into exclusive ports of call that are typically accessible only by yacht. Many of the destinations didn’t even have a pier so a small boat would take us to shore.   I enjoyed that we were able to cruise into these smaller sometimes more obscure ports. They were places that had I been planning the trip on my own I might have missed as they were too small or out of the way.

Rather than feeling confined, each new day was like Christmas morning; I jumped out of bed, ran to the portals, and pulled back the drapes anxious to get the first glimpse of the new locale we were arriving at. I also noticed that people on land were always staring back at the sight of this elegant ship gliding into their bay.

While there was a time limit in each port, the day was ours to do as we pleased. Some guests strolled though the Italian or Greek seaside towns, others went on professionally lead tours, and still others just enjoyed the views from poolside. The more sports minded on board enjoyed their choiceof kayaking, ski-tubing, and snorkeling which were available off the back of the boat.

Unlike the bigger ships, small ship cruising really gives you the experience of being at sea. This is an intimate cruise that connects you to the sea, and  the ports of call. Two of the four restaurants are on the back decks, holding only six to eight tables, allowing you to watch the shore pass by as you eat. The other restaurants and bars also all have fantastic ocean views, and you are never more than a few steps away from a view of the water anywhere on the boat.

On-board, the feeling is casual elegance. The beautiful teak wood decks, the towering white sails, the comfortable lounging areas, and the exquisite food all give that experience of being on board a good friend’s yacht. There are no dress-up nights or crazy parties, just great places to hang out and enjoy the sea and the beautiful locations passing by. This boat has two pools, a gym, two hot tubs and four restaurants. The entertainment on the ship is low key as well with an intimate show room and bar. On our cruise a great duo preformed in the lounge, and a world class pianist who has performed in Carnegie Hall was a rare treat.

There are three room types to choose from. The basic staterooms on the lowest and second lowest decks run between $1,800 to $3,600, depending on the location and time of year you are traveling. The suites can run between $2,600 and $5000 and if you can afford it, they are worth the extra dime. Suites are twice the size of the staterooms, have two bathrooms, a small sitting area, two large closets, come with Ipod docking stations and DVD players, and offer great views.

Choose a destination soon as the ships book up early. Windstar sails to Europe, the Caribbean, the Panama Canal, and Costa Rica. The tours around the Mediterranean such as Rome to Athens or Nice to Barcelona offer great ports of call. Small ship cruising is something you won’t want to miss. Check out all their 2010 sailings at www.WindStarCrusises.com

Tombs of Kalkan

Not that long ago getting to the Turquoise Riviera along Turkey’s sun-drenched Mediterranean Sea coast was a difficult adventure involving a spine-crushing trek over the Taurus Mountains or a long boat voyage. Today however, a coastal road (with some parts still under construction) connects some of Turkey’s ancient archaeological sites, stunning beaches, and small seaside villages now ready to welcome tourists.

The best and most frequently visited part of Turkey’s Turquoise Riviera begins in the eastern city of Antalya and travels the coastal road known as 400 to the river town of Dalyan in the west. Along the way expect to be awed at the crystal blue waters and plunging cliffs.

Antalya is Turkey’s third largest city and while most of the city is unremarkable, the old town center known as Kaleici, is a charming walk back to the ancient Ottoman Empire. In ruins as late as the 1980’s this historic old town has been brought back to life and completely restored with care and accuracy to its original splendor. Antalya offers visitors palm-lined streets, beautiful beaches, one of Turkey’s best archeological museums, and a charming old harbor.  Two days here is just enough to get the flavor of this historic harbor city.

Arrive here the way Roman Emperor Hadrian did in AD 130 through the gate that bears his name. Then, head to the Alp Pasa Hotel in the very heart of the old town. This charming old ottoman residence turned hotel has two beautiful garden courtyards, one with a small pool and outdoor café and one with ancient artifacts that were found on the site during the reconstruction. Deluxe rooms are small by our standards and simple, but feature a Jacuzzi tub to soak in after a long day of shopping and walking. Textiles are made nearby so be ready to bargain for clothes and shoes at the small shops that line the narrow cobblestone streets.

Just a few hours’ drive west along the Mediterranean Sea lays Turkey’s version of the famed Cliffside village of Postiatano. Like this spectacular Italian town, Kalkan is a laid back beach town on the steep slopes of a mountain that plunges into the sea. The small walking-only town center is dotted with small one and two-story Greek-style buildings filled with art galleries, shops, and idyllic outdoor cafés. Long leisurely meals at sunset looking out over the bay are the perfect end to a day here. The British have really put Kalkan on the map and flock here in the summer months. This has brought in some very accomplished chiefs and gives dinning here a much more international feeling than other locations along the coast.  The restaurant called Doy Doy’s just above the marina offers the best curried chicken around, and for a chic upscale spot try Aubergene, one of the newest places to open along the water.

Picking the right place to stay in Kalkan can make the trip. Try the White House situated right in the center of town which has a warm cozy feeling to it. It has only ten rooms and in keeping with its name everything here is clean and white from the tiled floors to the drapes. Rooms are small, but standard for this area and range from 60 to 90 Euros per night. If size matters the Asiyan Boutique Hotel just two minutes walk from the historic center offer huge rooms by Turkish standards with prices ranging from $60 to $100 US. The property is only a few years old and run by a delightful young Turkish couple. The size of the property is large and features a swimming pool, the only one in walking distance of the city center.

Kalkan is the in the center of what was once known as the Lycian Way, a federation of 19 states and one of the world’s first democratic nations. This makes it the perfect spot for exploring the rich and well-preserved ruins of some of the once great and beautiful cities that made up this federation such as Latoon and Xanthos.

The road trip ends at the small town of Dalyan which is perched on the banks of a dark green river teaming with fish. This winding river connects a deep fresh water lake with the Mediterranean Sea and was nothing but a small fishing village just 25 years ago. But, an English lady discovered over 140 bird species at the lake and the famous Loggerhead turtles (known locally as Caretta Caretta) and began organizing tours here. Today, the area is a vacation haven for the British who come for the views of the ancient Lycian Tombs that are cut high into the rocky cliffs, the hot mineral mud baths with reported therapeutic properties, and the beautiful three mile Turtle Beach that sits at the mouth of the river. Everything here is about the river and getting to the beach, the mud baths or the beautiful ruined city of Caunos is all by boat. Local public boats travel to the major sites, or hire a boat or water taxi to take you around.

If staying here for a few days you will want a view of the river and the Lycian tombs which are lit up at night. I recommend the new Dalyan Tezcan Hotel. This very modern small hotel has the best views in the city of the river and the tombs and rooms come with balconies where you can sit and watch the river sweep by. Prices range from $100 US for a riverside room.

Once inside to the upper floor where the restaurant sits the atmosphere changes dramatically. Clean white tablecloths, white tiled floor, and simple elegant décor that does not try to detract from the unparalleled views of the Istanbul’s Asian side and the famed sites of the Golden Horn. This is also the first time I recognized the genius of Hakan Ozkaraman, the owner of Grifen. This once ball-bearing salesman who taught himself to cook in his mother’s kitchen saw the potential of this lost neighborhood which easily commands one of the best views in the city. Situated on the European side of the city at the base of Beyoglu Hill steps from the waters of the Bosphorus that divide the east from west, diners are afforded amazing views of the Blue Masque, Topkapi Place, and the Haghia Sophia that are lit at night and seem to float over the old city.

Ozkaraman comes from a noble family of Ottoman descent and  is a commanding presence in his own right. But, much of the time he is watching me with the expectant look of a child waiting for my eyes to light up as I try dish after exotic dish that he has created. Everything here is something he invented or an exotic twist on a food that has come from his family kitchen. “I just like experimenting with the things I like. Eating here would be like eating at my home”, Ozkaraman says. Perhaps he is telling the truth, but it is hard to imagine anything as complicated and masterful coming from just any kitchen.

Take for example the Lakarda. One of the most delicate yet rich raw fish dishes I have ever had. To prepare this old Ottoman recipe requires a unique kind fresh fish from the local waters, boned, packed in salt, turned and drained every other day for two months before it can be served with fresh lemon juice and a small bite of red onion. This is better than any sushi I have ever had anywhere. And, this is not the only homemade delicacy to come from his kitchen. His bread is baked daily in a wood-fired oven giving it a smoky flavor perfect for dipping into his homemade hand pressed olive oil.  His fish soup flavored with over 15 herbs and spices he gets from the famed Spice Market left me wanting more. To accompany the meal he has only two wine choices, both from grapes from his family’s vineyard which compliment the seafood perfectly.

The original Grifin opened in 1923 and was owned my Ozkaraman’s neighbors when he was growing up. He purchased the restaurant 21 years ago and he has turned it into one of Istanbul’s most stylish and talked about restaurants. If you are in Istanbul this is one culinary experience you won’t want to miss. Don’t be shocked however if you never see a menu. Ozkaraman hates showing it. Personally, I encourage you to leave the menu for the unadventurous and just have brought to your table whatever is fresh that day. A meal of three to four mesa’s, Turkish appetizers, a main course, dessert and wine will run about $100 US per person. Grifin has only 22 tables so make a reservation and make sure you have the address written down and a really good taxi driver.

The Roman summers are hot, which makes the splashing cool waters of the Trevi Fountain, sitting in the shade of an outdoor café in Piazza Navona, and eating the cool creamy Italian treat, gelato all the more special.  Another favorite way of escaping the Roman sun is to head indoors to one of the City’s most visited museums, The Vatican. This summer you won’t want to miss two very special walking tours that can get you up close and personal with a practically private tour of the Vatican and an amazing behind the scenes look at the art of gelato.

Iced desserts may have been invented by the Persians who chilled syrups cooled in snow. In Arabic the there is a word meaning ‘fruit ice’ which is where we derive such wonderful words as sherbet, sorbet and sorbetto. But, no one did more to perfect the craft and spread it around the world than the Italians. The icy goodness was a favorite of Roman Emperor Nero who had snow transported in from the mountains and topped with fresh fruits. Other legends say that in the Yang Dynasty the Kublai Khan liked ice cream so much they kept the recipes’ a secret until they shared it with Marco Polo who brought it back to Italy. While we may never be sure who actually ordered up the first scoop most agree that today’s gelato comes from a combination of southern and northern Italian recipes. We can also agree that the cold flavorful dessert is a wonderful Italian delicacy.

To really get the full flavor of Italian ice cream you can join famous chief David Lebovitz, the author of The Perfect Scoop, The Complete Guide to Ice Cream on a culinary stroll through the heart of Rome to uncover all the secretes of this much loved treat.  Two tours on June 7^th and 9^th are scheduled and others may be added. The tour includes a visit to one of the most well-known gelaterie in the city of Rome, Giolitti, where you can get a sneak peak into the kitchen have the rare opportunity to view their process for making their mouthwatering gelato. You will also stroll through Rome’s historic center discovering the many facets of gelato and tasting along the way.

If you can’t make it in June, Context Tours also offers several other mouth-water walking tours led by renowned Chiefs all summer long including a Roman Market Walk, Wines of Italy, The Food Culture of Rome, and Savoring Rome; A culinary Tour just to name a few. Check out their website at www.contexttravel.com for a complete list. The special gelato tour is only 65 Euros and the other walks range from 55 to 130 Euros per person.

If your tastes run more towards art than food then another highlight of the summer is the practically private evening walking tour of the Vatican Museum. Undisputedly one of the finest collections of art in the world are hosted at these museums, and the architecture and frescos of Michelangelo are breathtaking. On any given day the Vatican hosts thousands of visitors making the wait to get in and the crowds inside a struggle to really appreciate the experience. That’s why this intimate tour of the Vatican is a once in a life time experience.

This summer Context Tours will offer evening two-hour strolls through the museums with only a total of 24 people attending at a time. But, if you think that is too impersonal, wait. They will then break that group down so that no more than five people will be assigned to one docent so that you get the most personalized attention possible. The docents aren’t just some college kids making a few extra dollars in the summer either, but are art historians and Papal scholars. These tours are almost like going back to college for a few hours. Priced at 280 Euros per person it offers the unrivaled experience of being able to stand in an almost deserted Sistine Chapel and have the incredible works of art almost all to yourself.

In this second installment about Hawaii’s Big Island I want to share with you my take on some of the best adventures you can have while on this island paradise. While it would be easy to while away the near perfect days on the beaches of the Kona Coast, here are my three most favorite adventures to get your blood pumping and see more of the island.

Horseback Ride in the Valley of the Kings

The huge sign at the top of the plummeting road warns that you cannot go down without a 4-wheel drive vehicle. And, now that I see the dirt road careening down I am amazed that the woman driving our jeep used to walk up and down it every day to go to and from school. But, all of this is overshadowed by the simply awe-inspiring view of the Valley of the Kings laid out before me. The valley’s walls are sheer cliffs soaring over 2,000 high, lush with vegetation and thick with cascading waterfalls. The mouth of the valley opens up onto a black sand beach and dark blue ocean.  We are headed down into this Eden-like valley to spend of few hours exploring on horse-back.

The Waipi’o Valley was the favorite retreat for the Hawaiian royalty and home to over 15,000 between the 13^th and 17^th century. Now however, the valley is one of the most isolated places in the state.  Hiking into it is not impossible, but to really get back into the valley taking the trip on horseback is the way to go.  Our guide, a beautiful young woman, used to live in the valley with her father and her family still owns and operates the Na’alapa Stables (www.naalapastables.com) . Once we complete the harrowing trip down the dirt road the travels get easier. The stables are well run and the beautiful horses offer a gentle ride through the lush valley floor past taro fields, through clear bubbling streams, and pas by dozens of waterfalls.

Sea Rocket Snorkeling

“I like this area because it is so far away almost no one comes down here” says Captain Kurt as he maneuvers the high speed pontoon-style boat into a quiet bay known as a home for its octopus, eels, and dozens of beautiful brightly colored fish. Captain Kurt has been doing boating tours for years and knows the special off the beaten track spots for the best snorkeling on the island. The Hula Kai, which is one of two boats owned by the family-run Fair Wind Cruises (www.fair-wind.com) is the luxury more adult ride of the two and because of it speed can cruise into areas most others can never get to. The Hula Kai comes complete with a built in kitchen where the Captain cooks a delicious lunch and has sea rockets on board you can rent.

Sea Rockets are like having a mini motorcycled attached to you as you snorkel. These tube-like structures with a powerful fan built into it can propel up to five miles an hour or give you a gentle glide through the waters. The speed is fun, but also can help you dive deeper and move quicker to the best snorkeling spots. The speed rockets add $50 to the cost of the trip, but are really worth it. The snorkeling trip is the perfect way to see the coastline of the island and get to places that would be impossible without this sort of a speed boat and the knowledge of the island.

For some added adventure fair Winds also offers a night swim with with the Manta Rays that live in these waters. They will swarm around you like dark angels on big wings and let you feed them. Watch out for your fingers.

Hike the Volcano

There is nothing quite like hiking around the lunar-like landscape of one of the world’s most active volcanoes. There are five volcanoes that formed the island of Hawaii over half a million years ago and Volcano National Park encompasses two of them including the youngest one, Kilauea. Since 1983 the volcano has been quiet, but in 2008 it sprung to life once again and is still active so now is the time to see this ancient island maker.  Hiking here is other-worldly as this area is a rain forest and often misty with steam vents shooting hot vapor  from the earth’s core, massive black lava flows that plummet into the ocean, and signs from earlier eruptions like Devil’s Throat, a massive old volcano tube now extinct and covered in ferns going down deep into the earth. Hiking here is easy with over 150 miles of trials or drive along the 11-mile Crater Rim Road. And, at night the volcano puts on a show as hot molten lava glowing red in the dark spits and steams as it falls into the surf. Bring a picnic dinner or snakes and enjoy mother’s nature show.

If you want to hear more about the volcano taking a tour of the park makes it easy to get around and the guides at Hawaii Forest and Trail (http://www.hawaii-forest.com) really can give you a lot of in depth information on the area that you won’t get on your own.  The price of the tour is $169.00 for an adult and includes a nice lunch sitting on an old lava flow looking out over the ocean.

Path to the Spa at The Craters Edge

THE BIG ISLANDS BEST; Accomodations

Hawaii’s Big Island has over 23 eco-systems, the tallest mountain and the largest active volcano on earth. But, once the fun is done the place you rest your head should be just as exotic. When going to the Big Island you have to visit what is often referred to as ‘the real Hawaii’, the wet and green Hamakua coast.  Here are two of my favorite exotic places to stay while on this side of the island that includes a private jungle retreat with no walls and a small Bed and Breakfast that is like a tree house for adults.   While there are no shortage of grand hotels and resorts on the Hawaii’s Big Island these two spots are so amazing you won’t want to close your eyes.

The Crater’s Edge

“I wish I could just turn off my brain and stop doing things,” says Melanie, the owner of At the Craters Edge. But, I am glad she can’t. A renaissance woman in every since of the word this delightful woman and I enjoyed a breakfast of fresh Hawaiian pineapple, papaya spritzed with lime, and some delicious homemade poppy seed bread outside on the large wooden porch at her guesthouse less than a mile from the most active volcano in the world.

A good percentage of visitors spend all day in the sun and never get to the wet jungle side of the Island to see the small villages and dramatic landscapes. But, going to this side of the island to see the more remote spots and explore the volcano is mandatory for adventurers. If you are going to spend time visiting Volcano National Park spend at least two nights in the village of Volcano to take the night hike to see the glowing lava spit and steam as it hits the ocean. It is easier than driving the dark roads back to some other location and makes a perfect home base for exploring this is side of the island.

Melanie has just completed designing and overseeing the building of a beautiful property that is a tree house for adults. Located in a dense wet rainforest, huge windows and sliding glass doors make up two sides of the two guest rooms giving views into the tropical foliage that make it seem that you are floating in the trees. The entire structure is made of wood imported from Canada giving the whole place a warm woodsy feeling. The vaulted ceilings in the rooms rise over head and are topped with tin. My fist night there I slept better than I had in months listening to the gentle drumming of the rain. And, it is dark. I mean really dark. Because of the proximity to Mauna Loa (the other volcano) and its observatory there are no street lights and almost no outdoor lights of any kind in the town of Volcano. Plus, there just aren’t that many people there anyway.  Melanie has furnished the two guest rooms with flashlights as well as top of the line linens, a deep Jacuzzi bath, and a fresh fruits and breads. A raised wooden walkway meanders through the tall trees and ferns to a secluded spa area with Jacuzzi and sauna.  With only one other guest room (although when not there she sometimes rents out the extra large main unit) you get the privacy and solitude that you just can’t find at a hotel or even a Bed and Breakfast. 

These rooms range in price from $250 to $375 per night and are available year round.

Minimalist Retreat

“I knew paradise existed, but I had no idea I’d find it at Reed’s Falls”. This is a quote from guest book at the private retreat called The Falls at Reeds Island (www.reedsisland.com). This is a truly a stunning vacation  property that will leave you wide eyed at its beauty.

Just a mile or two up the mountain from the little town of Hilo on the Big Islands wet side is a small dirt road that ends at an unassuming gate. But, swing the gate open and be prepared to never want to leave the beauty of this place. Sitting atop a narrow bluff at the end of a long winding drive sits a house by renowned architects who have been innovators of designing in the minimalist style.  And, this home is no exception. So minimalist in fact that it has almost no walls. One long central hallway is comprised completely o f large wood posts and screens so that the sights and sounds of the jungle surrounding the place are all around.  With a mere 6 to 8 feet of land on either side of the house, the property plunges to an almost vertical level down into a lush tropical ravine on one side of the house and into a emerald green river on the other.  From the window at the end of the house the unobstructed views are right into the magnificent triple water fall of Reed’s Falls.

Privacy here is unmatched. Though only a five minute drive into the town of Hilo there is not another building or person in sight. And, at night, the darkness is complete, and the only sound you will hear, and it is a loud sound, is the chorus of thousands of frogs that make the river their home.

With three very large comfortable bedrooms, each one with it’s own unique and breathtaking view, it is a great escape for a group, or can just be a cozy retreat for two. Prices for the place are incredibly reasonable for the Big Island. Rates range from $296 per night with  a seven night stay and up to $365 a night, less than the cost of many of the big resorts. 

This is the perfect home base for exploring some of the sites of the Hamakua Coast. Within an hour’s drive you can horseback ride into the breathtaking Waipi’o Valley, wander a real-world Eden at the World Botanical Gardens, or visit Volcano National Park.

On my first day in Tofino, British Columbia I found myself whispering. Talking at a normal level seemed like it would shatter the tranquility and scare the Bald Eagles, River Otters living all around. The quiet in this small village was welcoming and soothed my mind and soul as well as my ears.  The colors here are blue and green. The icy blue waters of the sound and bay are surrounded by mountains of ancient green rainforest and are just as calming as the quiet.

Stretching some 280 miles along the west coast of the U.S. and Canada, Vancouver Island is an untamed land about the size of Holland, roughly 12,400 square miles. High steep mountains running north to south split the island into two sections and shield the east side of the island and the southern parts of British Columbia from the terrific Pacific storms

The village of Tofino sits on the western side of the island on Long Beach Peninsula, a piece of land that juts out into the Pacific and is surrounded by massive sounds and inlets. Tofino with its 2,000 permanent residents is on the north side of the Peninsula, and Ucluelet, one of the most renowned kayaking destinations in the world, is on the other side. In between is the northern part of Pacific Rim National Park.

The park and the two towns draw in about a million visitors a year, but almost all of them are there in June, July and August. September and October (as well as April and May) are perfect times to visit to soak in the solitude. At this time of year you can hike the rainforest trail or kayak the sound and have the place almost entirely to yourself.  Temperatures can vary and are almost always on the cool side, but wet and cool is what the Pacific Northwest is all about. In fact, being there on a stormy night can be a fun experience when you are watching it from the comfort of your room by a fireplace.

Until this year driving was the only way in, but now Kenmore Airlines out of Seattle offers a few flights to Tofino that make getting there half the fun. Leaving from Boeing field in Seattle the flight takes you over the dazzling San Juan Islands that dot the Pacific and gives you a glimpse down onto the green fields, some beautiful seaside islands homes, and rugged undeveloped islands.  If you take this route in you will stop on the eastern side of Vancouver Island in a town called Ninimo (yes, this is where the famous chocolate dessert with the same name comes from) to go through customs. Stop in the gift shop for a nanimo bar and once in Tofino you can rent a car and take the only road into town.

Once you have arrived nature is the only item on the ‘to do’ list. Kayaking is the best way to experience the wild life and appreciate the coastlines. Kayak trips for the first timer or experienced traveler all are easily available. Or, if you are not ready for a sea adventure, the rainforest may be more your speed. The best place to start discovering the rainforest is at the Wickaninnish Center which is located on a broad expansive beach that seems completely unspoiled. This interpretive center offers exhibits and local history information and is a good way to get your bearings. Huge logs white-washed from the sun litter the beaches like ancient dinosaur bones and giant rocks called sea stacks protrude from the crashing surf. After seeing the center and a beach hike the restaurant in the center has good local food and spectacular ocean and sunset views.  From the Wickaninnish Center along the main road there are dozens of exceedingly well maintained trails that snake through a variety of different landscapes from old growth forests to bogs.  The park has taken great pains to protect the environment with beautiful wooden boardwalks throughout the forest that rise and fall with the landscape. There are hikes here for all levels, and an easy 20-minute hike through the old growth forest can be found on Schooner Trail which is especially exciting to walk at dusk.

One hidden spot I particularly recommend is Hot Springs Cove. There are no roads to get there, only a bumpy and exciting hour-long boat-ride followed by an amazing 30-minute hike along the pristine coastline. At the end of the hike you will be rewarded with a natural hot natural springs with a temperature of around 120 degrees bubbling from the dark soil amid ferns and huge conifers.  The water cascades down the rocks into several natural pools and then into the ocean. Bathers can stand under the hot waterfall or sit in one of the many natural pools including one pool at the bottom where at high tide the cold waves of the ocean rush in giving you a hot and cold bath all at once.

For a small town you might think you would have to ‘rough it’ where lodging and food is concerned, but that is not the case. Some surprising high quality places await you upon your return from your outdoor adventures. For lodging, the 5-star rated attraction for both lodging and food is at the Wickaninnish Inn.  Built on an outcropping of rock that juts into the ocean this hotel has 180 degree water views that is spectacular in any setting. Each of the 76 rooms offers an ocean view, fireplace, and furniture made from recycled old growth fir and driftwood.  Everyone raves about the The Point; the fine dining restaurant in the inn. The dining room faces the pounding surf with glass all around and a huge pounded copper fireplace to drive away the wet chill that often fills the air.

A more economical lodging I can recommend is the Cable Cove Inn. This wonderfully clean, well-run inn faces Clayoquot Sound and the Pacific and features six rooms with hot tubs, gas fireplaces, and views of the water. A breakfast is delivered to your door each morning and massages and yoga classes are available in a separate little guesthouse built down the cliff overlooking a tiny bay. There are no phones, no TV’s, and no internet connections here.  This is perfect for keeping with the solitude found in Tofino and for a truly romantic evening without distraction.

It isn’t often that a spa in a hotel is innovative and luxurious, but, the Tru Spa in the Hilton San Francisco is all that and more. The simple clean elegance of the spa hit you the moment you walk in. A large tank with ghost-like floating jellyfish greets you and set the stage for the peaceful pampering you are about to experience.

Tru is a real in-city spa, not large with only 10 treatment rooms, but with some very unique offerings. Because of the size there is no sauna or wet area to speak of, but Tru makes up for it supplying Champaign, chocolates, fruits and a cheese plate as you wait for your spa experience to begin.

For anyone who has had a facial the one constant is the hot steam that usually starts the process. But, a facial at Tru substitutes this facial staple with a new process using oxygen blasts. One of the first spa’s to use this revolutionary technique it is now catching on quickly at spas across the country. Infused with beneficial vitamins this pure oxygen blast is like taking a topical vitamin pill that is absorbed directly into the skin of your face.

Each massage room feels worlds away from the hustle of the Financial District and China Town which the hotel straddles. A variety of massages are offered, but each comes with your choice of a special light therapy experience. Each room is equipped with computerized light therapy that can be customized for the type of massage you want, such as ‘energize’, ‘relax’ or ‘detox’. “The color and light affects your body and mind, even though your skin,” says Ania Mankowska-Allard, the Spa Director. Your light therapy massage is matched with a handmade Shea butter that is accented with scents and oils that compliment type of massage you request.

But, the highlight of this place is the most unique of spa experiences, the Rainforest Room. Tucked away in the back corner of the spa a rock-like semi-circular wall sticks out from the rest of the simple décor signaling that something different is going on here. The Rainforest Room is actually three different rooms that you move through in a pampered haze.

Once inside you can choose from five different rainforest experiences that include scrubs, wraps, masks, steam, soaks, hair and scalp treatments that will certainly rejuvenate and relax you all at once.

Complete body wraps are done with none of the typical mummy-like wrappings. Instead, the ‘wrap’ is a specially created thick paste applied by your massage therapist and then you relax in the privacy of your room until the rain begins. When the treatment time is complete the thundering rain then washes it, and your stress away.

If you are traveling with a special someone the rainforest experience makes for a romantic afternoon for two. You and your loved one can apply the wrap to each other and enjoy the rainforest experience together. This special two-in-one experience has won the spa the Best Couples Treatment award and Allure Magazine has bestowed it as the Best Spa in San Francisco.

The massive chuck of ice my hand is on is huge, over ten feet long and about six feet tall. After less than a minute it is so cold it burns. But, the waters on the night the titanic sank were actually colder than this ice. The water in the iceberg was fresh water, but the dark waters the over 1,500 souls from the Titanic landed in were salt water, which freezes at an even colder temperature. This tactile experience is just one of the frigid experiences that put you back into time on the fateful night that the Titanic sunk. This new exhibit is the most comprehensive Titanic exhibit ever seen and opened in January 2009 at the Luxor Hotel.

Vegas has several new very hot and some very cold things to see and do right now. And, with the economy down the sales in Vegas are up. So, now is a great time to take the short trip to Las Vegas, see some of the new sights and take advantage of the great sales.

The Titanic: The Artifact Exhibit brings to life the story of the ill-fated Ship through over 300 authentic artifacts, dramatic room recreations and hands-on interactive experiences. I strolled along the deck of the titanic hearing the sounds of the ocean and seeing the stars twinkle in the distance and had my picture taken on the steps of the grand staircase where the first class passengers would gather before dinner. These two room recreations put you right into the ship like never before.

The artifacts are both big and small and feature some never before seen items. A ladies bag with perfume vials in it still filled with her favorite scents, a pair of men’s pants, and a bottle of champagne still filled with the bubbly liquid have all been rescued from the bottom of the ocean and put here on display. But, the most dramatic item is what is referred to as the Big Piece, the largest section of the Titanic ever recovered. This 15-ton piece of the Titanic’s starboard hull was raised 12,500 feet from the ocean floor and is now dry again after more than 80 years at the bottom of the sea.

On the Vegas strip this is certainly one of the most extensive, educational, and touching experiences that should not be missed.

Now my hand is touching ice again, only this time I am donning a full-length winter coat and thick gloves to keep me warm. I am in Minus 5, an ice lounge and a truly unique vodka bar that is built completely out of ice. In fact, the frozen architecture uses over 30-tons of ice that make up the walls, the chandeliers and the impressive floor to ceiling bar. Kept at a chilly 23 degree Fahrenheit all year round, minus 5 is certainly the coolest place on the strip. Located in Mandalay Bay the bar offers a wide range of vodkas to help keep you warm and also provides you with your choice of coats and mittens to wear while inside. There are several packages that range from $30 to $100 and get you different coats, drinks, and photos. I have been told that some Canadians stripped down to their skivvies for their picture to prove that they could beat the cold. Personally, I think they had one too many vodka shots.

After all that cold stuff I needed some warmth and pampering. So, I ended up at what Spa Magazine ranked as one of the best spas of the year, The Bath House. Small and personal for a Vegas spa, the Bath House is 25,000 square feet of pure bliss located in The Hotel, which is the high-end hotel that is part of Mandalay Bay. Peaceful Asian-influenced architecture and the sounds of bubbling streams and gently falling water almost immediately sooth you after the neon craziness of the strip. Their ‘scents of you’ massage is a mixture of aromatherapy and hot stone massage where you can choose from over 30 scents depending on your mood.

Warm up in one of several hot whirlpools, in a redwood lined dry-sauna, or the glass enclosed steam room. Being pampered is what this experience is all about and the incredibly friendly staff will make sure you have everything you need from warm towels to cool drinks. Of course, the offerings of massages, facials, manicures, and body wraps are the ultimate way to melt away any stress you have left after a night of fun on the Vegas strip.

For something even hotter check out the Mirages new Volcano show that runs every hour on the hour form 5 PM till 11 PM. This free show has been around for a while, but has been recently re-made with more fire power and set to music to rival the famous Bellagio dancing waters. ‘Fire shooters’ erupt from the lagoon and ‘lava’ rolls down the side with enough heat to feel it from the viewing area. The music, done by legendary Grateful Dead drummer Mickey Hart, is choreographed to the fiery explosions.

With all these new things to do and see in Vegas and the deals on hotels now is the time to head to this dessert playground. Hotels are desperate to fill their rooms and just a quick search on Vegas.com will show you dozens of never before seen special offers on even the most high-end hotels. Buy two nights, get one free and buy two nights and get a show for free are just some of the great offers now available.

Even if you’re a frequent visitor to Yosemite, seeing it in winter will be like seeing it for the first time. There is always a sunrise, a sunset, a lifting fog, a changing shadow and a wind driven snow that changes the landscape by the hour. And, if you haven’t been there at all, winter is the best way to first experience this 1,200 square mile wilderness park, the first wilderness park created in the United States. The throngs of summer visitors and lines are non-existent and the park takes on a quiet tranquil atmosphere.

Hiking the ancient giant sequoias in winter is a peaceful experience you won’t soon forget, and a perfect way to de-stress after the holidays. In fact, the moment you enter the park you can’t help but feel a little calmer. But, don’t let the fact the landscape is blanketed with snow fool you into thinking there is nothing to do.

The perfect winter escape starts by checking into one of the several lodges or Inns found in the Yosemite Valley. While there are several that fit within most people’s budgets, the Ahwahnee Hotel is the most spectacular. On the National Register of Historic places this massive six-story structure was built in 1920′s and blends in with the backdrop of the mountains all around it.

Inside the towering ceilings and floor to ceiling windows seem to bring the dramatic scenery indoors. Nowhere in the Ahwahnee is the study of size and grace more apparent than in the magnificent Great Lounge featuring fabrics with designs, colors and patterns reflecting the Native American heritage found in the hotel’s original décor. The Great Lounge is 77 feet long, 51 feet wide and 24 feet high and is flanked by grand fireplaces on each end so large you can stand in them or sit on one of their built in benches to stay warm. There are ten floor-to-ceiling windows, each with a top panel done in an original stained glass Indian design.

While you may be in a national park you certainly won’t be roughing it while staying in one of the Ahwahnee guestrooms. Each room features specially designed headboards, storage chests and armoires and window treatments that frame the spectacular scenery visible from most rooms.

Whether you are just spending a day in Yosemite or several nights, it is mandatory to enjoy at least one meal in The Ahwahnee Dining Room which has played host to presidents, royalty, celebrities, and countless visitors. It is often regarded as one of the most impressive dining rooms in the United States. Like the rest of the hotel the height of the room immediately impresses as it soars 34 feet overhead and is crisscrossed with logs of stripped sugar pine. Wrought iron candelabras hang from the timbers and gleam off the fine china giving the restaurant an elegant yet rustic feel that goes perfect with the mountain surroundings.

For all you foodies out there winter offers a special time at the Ahwahnee. This year marks the 24^th annual Chef’s Holiday held each January and February. Featuring some of America’s most innovative and acclaimed chefs this special package includes a “Meet the Chefs” reception, cooking demonstrations and behind-the-scenes kitchen tours of The Ahwahnee’s massive 6,500 sq. ft. kitchen. On the final evening, the Gala Chefs’ Dinner provides a fitting finale with a memorable five-course feast highlighting the specialties of the celebrity guest chef and paired with wine. There are several sessions occurring between January 11^th and February 5^th and reservations can be made by calling 801-559-4949.

While there is a lot to marvel at and do indoors, the reason to come to Yosemite in winter is the outdoor wonder. For skiers, Badger Pass Ski area is California’s original skiing spot established back in 1935. Today, it offers five lifts and ten runs on 85 acres (35% beginner, 50% intermediate and 15% advanced). Badger Pass also has a day lodge, full rental shop, two fast food restaurants and a sports shop. For those wanting a slightly slower pace Badger also is home to The Cross Country Ski Center, which offers classes in cross-country skiing and guided trans-Sierra trips to Glacier Point Ski Hut. Cross-country skiers can enjoy 25 miles of groomed track and 90 miles of marked trail. But to really get back to nature take a ranger-led snowshoe walk. These beautiful treks take you to some enchanting spots within the park. For something really different time your trip to coincide with the full moon and take the moon-light snowshoeing tour.  Free shuttle buses transport skiers from Yosemite Valley hotels to Badger Pass twice daily.

 Another winter activity is the beautiful ice-rink in curry village. Nestled in the shadows of two of Yosemite’s most dramatic sights, Glacier Point and Half Dome Mountain there simply couldn’t be a more romantic place to skate. Every year between November and March since 1928 when the Winter Club flooded the parking lot there has been skating here. Now the rink has all the amenities of a modern skating surface with skate rentals, a warming hut, and cubbies for shoes. For those who don’t want to partake of the ice the best thing here is the outdoor fire pit. The store next door sells hot chocolate and the ingredients to make your own smores over the open fire.

Before you go: Between October and March two-wheel drive vehicles require tire chains or bring a four-wheel drive vehicle and have chains available. For weather information, call 209-372-0200, or visit www.BadgerPass.com.